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| Everest Spring '99 |
| The Himalayan
Experience Everest Expedition members met in Kathmandu on Thursday 01
April 99
The members of the team come from several
different countries, but have proved to be very compatible and well
experienced for the undertaking of the ascent of Everest via the North
Ridge in Tibet.
Members are:
Kazuhiko Kozuka
Japan
Kunitsugu Kobayashi
Japan
Geoffrey Robb
Australia
Helga Hengge
Germany
Kenneth McConnell
Australia
The climbing team is led by New Zealander,
Russell Brice.
A small group of trekkers joined the
expedition members to the Base Camp.
Susan Robb
Australian
(Geoff's wife)
Don Spary
New Zealand
visited the Advance Base Camp
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Russell's Staff
I have the normal 5 very strong
High Altitude Sherpa staff:
Loppsang Tember Sherpa
Phurba Tember Sherpa
Karsang Sherpa
Sonam Tember Sherpa
Narwang Sherpa
Along with the HA Sherpas I have a great
team of BC & ABC staff.
Lachhu Basnet
Kul Bardur Basnet
Chhimi Sherpa
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|
| Log |
|
| 03 April |
All the members fly
to Lhasa to spend three days sightseeing and acclimatizing.
|
| 05 April |
Russell and the Sherpas
drive by truck from Kathmandu to the boarder town of Kodari
|
| 06 April |
The members drive from
Lhasa to Zigatse. Russell and the Sherpas cross the boarder to Zangmu
and then drive to Nylam.
|
| 08 April |
The members stay in
Tingri for acclimatization. Russell and the Sherpas drive to the Base
Camp.
|
| 09 April |
The
members drive from Tingri to BC (5,200m 17,060ft) |
| 12 April |
The important religious
ceremony called "Puju". The local Rongbuk Monastery monks visit the
BC and pray for the safe keeping of the Sherpas and members during
the expedition. Susan also begins her return journey to Kathmandu.
|
| 13 April |
Russell and the 5 HA
Sherpas along with 32 yaks begin the walk to the ABC. They establish
the Interim Camp (5,800m 19,028ft) where local yak man Chuldim will
look after the camp for the duration of the expedition.
|
| 14 April |
Russell and the Sherpas
establish the Advanced Base Camp (6,400m 20,997ft).
|
| 15 April |
Geoff, Helga and Don
go from BC to Intrim.
|
| 16 April |
Ken, Kozuka san, Kobayashi
san, Sumiyo and Lachhu along with 32 yaks go to the Interim camp
|
| 17 April |
Sumiyo, Kobayashi san,
Lachhu and the yaks reach the ABC, whilst Kozuka san and Ken (the
doctor) stay for another night for acclimatization.
|
| 18 April |
Kozuka san and Ken reach
the ABC and in the meanwhile Russell and Don go back down to the Interim
camp. The start of Don's return to Kathmandu. The Sherpas carry their
first loads to C1.
|
| 19 April |
Russell and Don return
to the BC, and then Don drive to Zangmu. The Sherpas carry their second
loads to C1.
|
| 20 April |
Russell returns to ABC
to join all the other members who have all acclimatized very well
and are now preparing to make their first visit to C1 on the North
Col (7,000m 22,965ft).
The Sherpas have their first well deserved
rest day.
|
| 21 April |
Russell and
the sherpas do a carry to the North Col where the sherpas stay the
night. They do the trip in about 2 1/2 hours without stops which is
about half the time the rest of us would take.
|
| 22 April |
The members
have their first trip to North Col. The ice wall to NC is about 350m
in height with fixed ropes all the way. It's a matter of jumar in
one hand, pulling a bit with the rope in the other hand, then taking
steps in between rests. All members successfully made it, with some
carrying a token sleeping bag as a symbolic gesture for the load carrying
effort. During the descent it became very cold and nasty with a minor
storm hitting. The sherpas returned to ABC.
|
| 23 April |
A rest day
for all. Russell and the sherpas were planning to fix ropes up high
to C4 but the weather report blows this apart with a forecast of 50knt
(62.5mph or 100kph) winds up high for the next 5 days.
Our cook, Lacchu has cooked
at all 14 8000m peaks with the exception of Nanga Parbat. This is
probably a record which can't be broken in view of the restrictions
now imposed by Pakistan. The Swiss group are creating a nuisance for
all as they have camped on top of the main path and are unnecessarily
forcing large detours.
|
| 24 April |
Ken, Helga
and Geoff do another trip to the North Col. Strenuous for all except
the sherpas and Russell who do another carry.
At ABC, although it is generally
sunny, the wind never lets up. The sun goes down at 4pm and the temperature
plummets.
|
| 25 April |
Once again
the sherpas carry a load to NC while we members rest. NC is now getting
fully stocked with rope, sleeping bags, gas, cooking equip, oxygen,
all for up high. It is up to the members to take their own food.
|
| 26 April |
While the
sherpas rest(!), the 5 members and Russell are going up to NC to sleep.
Up the ice wall again with heavier packs. NC is protected from the
wind by a huge serac that has developed over recent years. Everyone
has finished their meals snow melting with lights out by 7pm.
|
| 27 April |
It's a long
night as most of us don't sleep much, if at all, being our first night
at 7000m.The sun breaks early at NC and it's very pleasant there,
but Russell gets us moving early. We eventually set out on a walk
up the North Ridge towards C2. The North Ridge is a steep snow slope
that is exposed to huge winds. It is very strenuous and cold battling
these winds but Ken does well to get to C2 (7500m), and the rest of
us turn back earlier. It's a long way back down to ABC.
|
| 28 April |
Helga and
Kobayashi san head down to BC for a much needed rest. The sherpas
are trying to fix rope from 7800m, but the winds will probably force
them to come down.
|
| 30 April |
A rest day
for all. Russell spends the morning trying to convince a few recalcitrants
that they should contribute to the cost of the establishment of the
fixed ropes. Weather is freezing but no real snow.
|
| 1 May |
Hopefully
about half way through the trip. The sherpas, the fabulous fearsome
five, carry to NC. We unfortunately hear that one of our tents at
NC has been damaged with the tent inner and contents going over the
edge. The wind dies down in the evening and we get our first snow.
|
| 2 May |
Russell rescues
the tent half way up the ice fall. Geoff and Kozuka san head up to
C1 while the sherpas do a carry to C2 (7500m).
|
| 3 May |
Geoff and
Kozuka head up to C2 where Purwa joins them. The wind is constant
and freezing fingers are a problem. Ken goes up to NC. The sherpas
continue to supply C3.
|
| 4 May |
Geoff makes
it up to C3 (7900m) and even holds the tent while the sherpas are
erecting it. Only another 1km to go, but the first and second steps
seem just up there. Ken and Russell make it to C2 as Geoff, Kozuka
and the sherpas descend. A blizzard hits, but there is no real danger
as its just a matter of following the fixed ropes down. At NC a cup
of tea and bread encourage the decision to go down to the comforts
of ABC even though there is a whiteout. New snow makes the descent
more difficult on the steep slope.
|
| 5 May |
Helga is coming
up from interim to ABC. Ken and Russell are attempting to get up to
C3 but the wind is likely to defeat them. The rest are enjoying a
rest at ABC. Ken & Russell make it to C3 and return to ABC. We
hear that several people reach the summit on the South Side.
|
| 6 May |
Helga is going
up with Sonam on her final acclimatization trip.
Geoff and Kozuka accompany
each other on the 22km walk back to BC. Ken follows a little later
after his medical rounds, and Narwang also comes down due to some
tooth problems. Some creeks have risen significantly and it is much
warmer at BC. Lacchu has bought a lot of chickens from Zangmu, but
they seem to need breast implants. Together with fresh tomatoes and
apples, they are a delicacy
|
| 7 May |
Kobayashi
goes up from BC after a long rest. Helga goes to C2.
Ken, Geoff and Kozuka enjoy
Lacchu's happy holiday camp.
|
| 8 May |
Kozuka
wants a bath and goes down to Zangmu for a few days. Also with him
are some Belgians (who are uncertain whether they can pay for the
fixed ropes up high). The Ukrainians are on top of the 2nd step early
and heading for the summit but the weather does not look good from
down here. BC is bleak and windy for the rest of the day. Helga gets
to C3 then back down to ABC. It snows a lot at BC and ABC. We even
put the gas heater on in the middle of the day.
|
| 9 May |
It's blowing
a gale. Everest has changed from a rock pyramid to a snow cone. The
American group is pretty happy about finding Mallory's body although
all they have done is film Everest's cemetery.
3 Ukrainians summitted yesterday
but only 1 found his way back to top camp in the storm. Helga and
the sherpas go down to BC for a rest.
|
| 10 May |
1 of the Ukrainians
is missing (dead), and Russell co-ordinates
his 5th above 8,000m rescue
for the other one. Our oxygen and resources are used up high.
The Ukrainian is carried back to ABC and arrives at 2.30am. Our mess
tent is used as the hospital. The wind continues to howl.
|
| 11 May |
The Ukrainian
will survive minus some appendages. Russell comes down to BC. Ken,
Helga and the sherpas go for a walk to the Rongbuk monastery. Kozuka
arrives back in the evening from Zangmu with a broad smile.
|
| 12 May |
Russell is
back at BC and all but Kobayashi (at ABC) are down resting. Geoff,
Helga and the Sherpas are paying a visit to the old Rongbuk monastery,
just an hour from our camp. An old Lama gives us the tour of the ruin
where many Buddhas and Milarepa have left their foot and finger prints.
We climb through an old cave winding under the rocks - through
hell and into heaven - as the lama instructs us, lighting many
butter lamps and praying for safe passage on the mountain for our
team.
The hot shower is working full
steam and at night Everest stands as elegant as ever in the sunset
- as if nothing ever happened.
|
| 13 May |
Wind and cloudless
day in paradise on the moraine. Our camp is buzzing with news from
summit attempts on the Southside, where the weather is quite different
from here, but no one knows who really made it and the rumours run
wild. Ken, Geoff and Kozuka are leaving for Interim Camp after lunch.
Kobayashi comes down in the afternoon from ABC and announces that
he will leave the expedition - he is going home.
|
| 14 May |
Lachhu, Karsang
and Helga leave early for ABC - and after three hours in the sun a
light snowstorm accompanies them all the way up to ABC - and that
is why the Sherpas and Russell wait another day before they go. Geoff,
Ken and Kozuka came up from Interim. Tonight everyone at ABC is hugging
around the heaters it is so cold and the snow keeps coming.
|
| 15 May |
Brilliant
sunshine and spa morning at ABC. Russell and the Sherpas are coming
up from BC in only five hours and a bit. Light snowstorm in the afternoon.
The American climbers are spending their second night at 7800m and
everyone is praying for good weather. Coughs are going around, ours
have started socializing more to pass the long days waiting.
|
| 16 May |
Wine and cheese
before lunch, as long as the sun shines. Many climbers - a lot of
resolute, rugged individuals - are off onto their summit bids as rumours
of two good weather days have circulated around camp. Many are going
for non-stop climbs from here directly to the summit - speed ascents?
- but it has snowed much these last days which will make it hard.
The Americans are at camp 8300m and will also go to the summit tonight.
We are all staying at ABC, Russell doesn't like the weather pattern
yet. We take the time to practise our oxygen masks and regulators...
|
| 17th
May |
All the action
today is in the American camp where two climbers are live on their
radios climbing the Second Step being filmed. Also, Eric is being
interviewed - it is quite a scene - we recreate it in our kitchen
tent to much laughter... we'll see it on TV in a few months.
Russell is standing by directing the way, since he's been up there
many times already, when the Americans can't find the ropes in the
thick snow. None of those rugged individuals has made the summit,
most have quietly come back to ABC and vow to try again. There are
not many Messners after all who can just walk up there without oxygen
and bag the summit. We have a plan to maybe summit altogether instead
of making two teams since it is easier to get two good days than four
in a row. Looking at the 25th right now.
|
| 18th
May |
Ken got an
emergency phone call from home and leaves right away. We loose our
favourite doctor and a great and fun companion. The Americans are
through with their cheering and pack up to go home. Most of the unruly
Swiss are out as well but many others are starting up the route for
summit bids. We are packing food and getting ready - not tomorrow
but one of the next days. Readiness is all. We already miss you Ken.
|
| 19th
May |
On May 18,
3 Polish summitted around 2pm, but stayed 1 1/2 hrs doing media interviews!
2 Belgians summitted late at 4.15pm. Only 1 of the 5 got back to top
camp that night, 1 walked in the next morning, and 1, the Polish leader
was rescued at the first step lunchtime the next day. 1 Pole and the
Belgian leader are dead, with 1 being seen on the wrong route and
then falling down the Great Couloir.
Once again, these were under
resourced teams, which did not turn back when they should have. Most
of these summitted without, or ran out of, oxygen (we have 5 bottles
each), without sherpas (we have 2 each incl Russell), without fixed
ropes (we will have more) which can guide you down. They put other
peoples lives and summit chances at risk when they need rescuing.
Russell, as usual, was heavily involved in co-ordinating the rescue
effort and our equipment was used.
We have the South Africans
to dinner and Helga organises a Swiss fondue which is a pleasant change
|
| 20th
May |
We look like
remaining at ABC for at least another couple of days, so our summit
date is uncertain. The weather is very unstable, snow showers here
every day and high winds up high.
Everyone has now come off the
mountain and are down at ABC. The Italians and Tibetans gave up their
bids due to high winds. About half the teams have gone or are going
home.
|
| 21st
May |
There is a
good forecast for 4 days time and a summit decision will be made tomorrow
morning. Not much is happening as everyone is waiting; washing, card
games, reading, eating and drinking consume our time.
|
| 22nd
May |
The weather
forecast continues to improve with winds dropping significantly on
May 26. Russell decides an extra day here would be better, so at this
stage we are definitely going up tomorrow. Hopefully the wind may
also be a little lower on the exposed ridge between C1 and C2. It
may be another week before this web page is updated again!
|
| 23rd
May |
All members climb
up to C1 (7,000m) |
| 24th
May |
All members climb
up to C2 (7,500m) and the Sherpas move up to C1. Russell is unwell so
returns to ABC. |
| 25th
May |
Members and Sherpas
climb up to C3 (7,900m). Everyone is sleeping on oxygen at this camp. |
| 26th
May |
Members and
Sherpas climb up to C4 (8,300m) Members are using oxygen to climb
and everyone is using oxygen to sleep on.
|
| 27th
May |
Members and
Sherpas have paired up. Geoff with Karsang, Helga with Loppsang and
Kozuka with Phulbur. Everyone sets off at 01.00. It is warm with no
wind and an almost full moon. By 03.00 everyone is at the First Step
and moving well. There is a great sunrise as the team reaches the
Second Step.
At 06.45 Geoff and Karsang
are on the summit. About half an hour later Helga and Loppsang reach
the summit, and an hour after them Kozuka and Phulbur reach the summit.
This is the third time that Karsang has summited from the North, and
the second time for Loppsang. This is the first time that Phulbur
has summited on Everest.
Geoff and Helga return easily
to the top camp where they have drinks before moving on down the mountain,
Geoff to C1 and Helga to C2. However things are not going so well
for Kozuka who has insisted on using oxygen from C1. He is very slow
returning to C4 and needs assistance from Narwang who has been waiting
at C4 all day. It is not until early evening that Kozuka, Narwang
and Phulbur return to the top camp. Karsang and Loppsang return to
C1 at the North Col to meet with Russell and Sonam who are there clearing
part of the camp. They continue to descend to ABC by moonlight.
|
| 28th
May |
Geoff returns
to ABC for breakfast, however things have deteriorated on the hill.
During the night Narwang and Phulbur are asked to go and assist another
team who are late returning to the top camp from the summit. Then
having worked so hard all day Phulbur discovers that he has snow blindness.
He had lost his glasses at the second step.
He makes his way down the ropes
to C2 during the night arriving at 05.00, and hence waking Helga with
a start. Loppsang and Karsang climb back up the mountain to assist.
Karsang goes to C3 where he meets with Narwang and Kozuka. Loppsang
helps his friend Phulbur down to ABC along with Helga. They arrive
early afternoon. Karsang, Narwang and the exhausted Kozuka arrive
back at ABC in the evening. A celebratory dinner lasts until late
in the evening.
|
| 29th
May |
Rest day for
all, and a rapid recovery for Phulbur. Russell is packing rubbish
from many of the other teams who departed today. Plans are made for
the return to Kathmandu.
|
| 30th
May |
Helga and
Geoff will return to BC whilst Kozuka recovers enough to walk the
distance. The Sherpas and Russell will return to C2 and C1 to
collect the remaining equipment and remove the fixed ropes. They hope
to remove everything that remains in one day. On 31st Kozuka and Lachhu
will return to BC while Russell and the Sherpas pack the ABC. On 01
June the yaks will arrive at ABC and on 02 they, along with the Sherpas
will return to BC. Another day of packing and loading the trucks ready
for departure on 04 June. On 05 June the team will leave Zangmu and
Tibet and will arrive back in Kathmandu.
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The end of another
successful Himalayan Experience expedition to Everest. |
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