Friday
the 5 September was the last full day that we spent at base camp and
it was a day of mixed emotions. Firstly it was the day of departure
of Juhani and Merja the Finnish couple who had come with intent of
reaching base camp and spending some time viewing the mountain. We
were all very sad to see them go, they had been very good traveling
companions. Some of us had also benefited from Juhani's skill as a
doctor and Merja's as a nurse.
It was, however, not a simple departure for Juhani and Merja for the
day started with an unexpected casualty. While having breakfast one
of the Sherpas asked Russell to take a look at a Yakman from another
expedition. The very unfortunate Yakman had sustained a nasty puncture
wound just below and involving the right eye. The wound was weeping
and had been bleeding, it appeared that he had recieved no medical
attention of any kind. He explained that the accident had occurred
at around midnight, a yak horn had caused the wound.
He was pretty keen to get back to work, herding up towards ABC. This
was clearly not going to be possible. Russell and Richard provided
first aid, cleaning and bandaging the wound. After discussion between,
Russell, Julian and Juhani it was decided that the Yakman be given
a strong painkiller (Tramadol), an anti-inflammatory (Ibuprofen) and
an antibiotic (Amoxil). Russell organised and paid for the Yakman
to be transported to the nearest hospital, he also provided for one
of the Yakman's friends to travel down later to see him. The whole
incident was very unfortunate and it sent a shock through our party
We were also very angry at the lack of attention and even basic aid
provided by the expedition effectively employing the Yakman. There
is often criticism of commercial expeditions in terms of their large
infrastructure and associated costs. This incident clearly shows,
that to operate in this environment, you need to be prepared and it
is the prepared expeditions that absorb the lack of preparation from
others. But perhaps the most disappointing aspect of this incident
was the apparent lack of compassion shown to a fellow human being.
Saturday dawned a glorious day for our move to ABC. There was an air
of excitement at the prospect of moving to the mountain proper. We
were also very aware that this was going to be a long day, 22km and
approx 800m of ascent. We headed out of camp after breakfast and crossed
the river via a foot bridge. We were then lucky to find a new road
heading towards ABC and then a truck offering a ride to the construction
head. So 22 of us hitched a ride, on the back of a truck carrying
diesel drums, halfway to ABC. A gift from the gods. We walked another
four hours and arrived at ABC in the snow with only a short wait for
the yaks and Lachhu. He has left after us and ran from BC to ABC in
less than 5 hours. He was a little suprised that he did not catch
us up.
Monday, time for the puja, the gateway for everyone planning to approach
the mountain. The sherpas set up the scene which was nothing less
than fantastic. Prayers, prayerflags, presents, offerings for the
mountain gods and many rituals all together gave everyone a very emotional
moment to remember. Now we can procede further up Cho Oyo knowing
that we have the blessing of the mountain gods. Which was exactly
what was planned for us yesterday, as we all headed up towards camp
1 at 6400 meters.
Tuesday. First part of the trip consisted of a large amount of bouldering
and scree. Then we approached what Russell describes as, 'a gentle
scree slope'. I doubt any of the expedition members agree with that
statement, since 40-50 degrees were dominant throughout. But then
again, Russell has tried some rather taxing things in his time...
Anyway most people felt up for the challenge and gave it their best
shot. Which proved sufficient, the team looks fit and keen, promising
well for the tasks ahead.. The descent of the scree slope actually
turned out to cause more worried minds than the ascent since speed
can quickly become too hairy.. Luckily everyone got down safely with
only a few slips being the case..
Back home at ABC everybody felt just a "little" exhausted
but also satisfied knowing that an important milestone had been reached...
Wednesday.
Today & tomorrow are rest days after which we go to camp 1 again
to sleep overnight.. Also meaning that we have to transport quite
a heavier load than last time.. Ascent times are likely to be just
a tad slower.
Signing off
Julian Haszard and Mogens Jensen
10 Sept 03