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The
plan was to go up to Camp 1 on 28th September, for our final summit
attempt, as time was running out. We were desperately hoping for the
weather to be on our side for a change.
When we left ABC it was still quite windy and snowy and we climbed up
the dreaded scree slope for one last time, still uncertain as to whether
or not we would get above Camp 2.
We woke on the 29th to see windy lenticular clouds covering the summit
above us, and we packed up and left for Camp 2 feeling pretty sure that
this would just be a gear retrieval exercise. The climb up to 7100 metres
was cold, windy and a fight with the elements and we were glad to crawl
into our tents.
The plan for the next day was of course very much dependent on the weather.
But at last our luck turned. We were woken at 2am to find a clear starry
sky and no wind. It was all systems go! However at that altitude it
is not quite so simple just to go, as snow has to be melted for drinks
and food and this all takes time. But by 4am we were all dressed and
ready in downsuits, boots, crampons, harnesses, headtorches and of course
oxygen masks - which made it impossible to tell who was who.
For several hours a caravan of headtorches crawled slowly up the hill
towards the summit of Cho Oyo. As dawn broke we could see were high
over the Himalaya - high above most other mountains and the views were
breathtaking.
Our first real challenge of the morning was the rockband. We had to
climb this by means of jumaring, and at 7600 metres, even with supplementary
oxygen this left us totally exhausted - and it brought home to us how
high we really were.
Soon after this Paul realised his toes were becoming dangerously cold
and made the sensible decision to turn back. From here on we split into
two groups, with Stuart, Mark and Simon going on ahead and Chris, Sue
and Ian following on behind.
By this time we were almost at 8000 metres and it really felt like it,
as the whole world seemed to be dropping away below us. It was a truly
amazing feeling and something we will never forget.
At 8150 metres Chris, Sue and Ian were on the summit plateau and met
the other three returning from the summit. There was a quick group discussion
regarding remaining time and oxygen and it was decided that it would
be prudent for them to turn around and descend with Stuart, Mark and
Simon. At that height everyone felt as though they were on top of the
world and the stunning views across Nepal and Tibet proved that we nearly
were. It was a very emotional moment.
Of course we still had to get down and this proved tortuous and exhausting
as most of us had now run out of oxygen. It certainly made us realise
what a big mountain Cho Oyo is. On arriving back at our safe haven of
Camp 2 we just had enough energy to congratulate each other before falling
comatose into our tents.
We are now back at ABC packing up ready to leave for Base Camp tomorrow.
We will be back in the fleshpots of Kathmandu on Friday - and to say
we are looking forward to a bit of good food and comfort is certainly
not an understatement
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